Yawn. Stretch. What happened?

It's been awhile I guess. Where was I?

After my last post I ran into some problems. Mostly, I didn't know how to do this, and didn't want to mess up.

I ended up taking over a full year off, and last month I started in again, with 2 weekends off for holiday travel.

It doesn't look like much because it's completely gutted. All the electronics and bells and whistles are laying safely on the bench to the left.

Here's the concessions I've made over the last few weekends:

• My cabinet is too small for the 19 inch CRT that I had. It's not "deep" enough
• I plan to move this cabinet around a few times, so I mounted my 19 inch LCD to a removable frame in the cabinet. Completely removable.
• This means no lightgun unless I get an IR version. Not bad, as i tested the light gun and it absolutely needs to be reconfigured for each game every time you start one up.

Here is a list of things I've done since the last post:

• Tested audio with new speakers (room for improvement there, but it's working)
• Cut control panel board
• Cut Lexan control panel top
  
  
• Tested and wired the MiniPac (joystick/buttons connector) including the lightup trackball and 25c buttons
• Designed and mounted a completely removable (and possibly replaceable) Controller setup. When I post some pics, I'll detail why this is so flexible.
• Cut the speaker mount (need to cut the holes)

Finally - since I'm into lists today - here's a list of things I have yet to do/solve:

• A nice bezel for around the monitor to hide the inner cabinet. I've heard people say black poster-board, and i may go that route but it feels awfully temporary and flimsy.
• Clean up the monitor's Lexan plate and particularly decide how it will interact with the controller. I've been hoping the controller panel, when raised, will allow the glass to be removed. now I think I need a glass plate to slide under the glass and when removed, the glass can slide down. I really need to get at the monitor to remove it easily, otherwise i have to come in from the back. Hmm. Maybe that's okay too.
• Test the coin door and see if it still works.
• Coin door needs covers on the coin out slots - maybe a new coin door is in order?
• Install SOSS hinges on the controller top to allow it to open
• Install slider hinge on top controller to keep it from opening too far. Actually bought one but i think it stops it from opening to 90+degrees, which I definitely want. Need it to stay opened via gravity. I want it to stop at ~100 degrees, so i may just go with the simple safety chain idea instead
• Need to decide where to mount the 25c buttons so they don't look odd
• Need to decide what to do for the mouse buttons. I want a left/right mouse button accessible but not obvious, so no mouse is necessary. I also don't want to change any default controls to use a mouse button (like P1 B1). Maybe pinball style buttons?!? That's brilliant.
• Mount the rear panel
• Sand most of the sides of the cabinet and a few of the pieces
• Cut a number of T-Molding slots
• Mount the marquee and get a marquee lighting installed
• Paint paint paint everything.
• Assemble everything